This was my first trip as a couple. We started our journey from Vienna and flew to Tirana with Ryan Air. We landed at Tirana International Airport on a rainy night. There are two options to get to Tirana center- By bus or taxi. The bus is the easiest and cheapest option to travel. The ticket costs around 400 Leke or 4 Euros. Tickets can be booked online at Tickets. We stayed at Hostel Split Rock, around 15-minute walk from Tirana Center. A rusty-looking building with rooms for groups and families. We occupied a room with a balcony overlooking the street.
The next morning, we could see local vendors assembling fresh vegetables, fruits from their farms and fish on the street. Highlights included Oranges and Olives making them inexpensive and delicious. We then came to know that we were staying at Farmer’s Market Street. We started our day with a hot Cappuccino and Caprese sandwich from Sophie’s Caffe. Along with our order, there was a tiny rolled-up surprise which turned out to be a motivational quote to start the day with positivity. A Cafe designed artistically with hanging jute sacks of coffee beans from various parts of the world, lots of chairs and a wall full of writings making it the cosiest cafe we could have chosen for our morning coffee.
Skanderbeg Square
After having our breakfast, we headed out to explore more of Tirana. Our first stop was Tirana’s most visited square- Skanderbeg Square. Skanderbeg Square is the main plaza in the center of Tirana and is named after the Albanian national hero, Gjergj Kastrioti Skënderbeu. The square spans 40,000 square meters and is surrounded by some of the city’s most important cultural and governmental buildings, including the National Historical Museum, the Et’hem Bey Mosque, and the Clock Tower. The square is dominated by the towering equestrian statue of the Albanian national Hero flaunting his sword conveying his valour towards the Ottoman empire.
With Christmas and New Year approaching, the square was converted into a festival park with markets, games and rides. A huge Christmas tree was erected in the centre of the square with other colorful installations along the pedestrians.
Bunk’Art 2- Atomic Bunker Museum
Just like that, we walked our way to the heart of Tirana. Encountering the former Nuclear bunker of the communist era which has been transformed into an underground museum, now known as Bunk’Art 2. Here we got a lot to know about the history of Albania. The museum has very informative photographs, eerie audio and videos playing in the background while we explore around. We got to know the dark history of Albania and reveal the secrets of “Sigurimi”, the political police used by the regime of Enver Hoxha.
Some other highlights include the investigation room, the first computer used by the Albanian Ministry of Internal Affairs and the names of people who were exiled or executed by the communist party.
The Fortress of Tirana and other landmarks
Late afternoon, we strolled down the streets to the Fortress of Tirana, a historical landmark in Tirana where one can enjoy traditional bazaars and try out some exquisite Albanian cuisine surrounded by huge castle walls.
On exiting the Fortress, one comes across St. Paul Cathedral, a Roman Catholic church dedicated to the apostle St.Paul. Built in very modern architecture, the church was decorated with a Christmas crib. At the entrance of the church is a statue of Mother Teresa, who is a prominent figure in Tirana due to her Albanian roots. The church is located opposite to Vodafone bridge and is tough to miss.
Our next stop was to have a late lunch and we decided to head to Toptani Shopping Centre. A six-floor building with great views of the Tirana centre and a perfect view of the largest mosque in the Balkans- The Namazgah Mosque or the Great Mosque of Tirana. We grabbed some snacks from KFC and enjoyed the great views from the top floor.
Once the sun had set, Tirana turned into a colorful display of lights. Every street, shop and road is decorated grandly. Even the trees were lit up with hanging and serial lights. There was a large installation of 2025 which attracted tourists and locals alike.
Day trip to Berat and Belshi Lake
The next morning, we were excited to travel to the UNESCO World Heritage city of Berat. We had booked a tour with Smart Tour Albania from GetYourGuide. This tour included pickup and drop to your location. We were picked up in a minivan by our guide Klajdi. Our journey was through the outskirts of Tirana with views of the Olive fields and wineries which resembled the roads of Italy.
Our first stop was Lake Belshi, one of the 84 lakes in the Dumre region. The natural lake offers a serene escape from the hustle and bustle of Tirana. Belshi is dotted with restaurants featuring breathtaking views of the lake. We had around 45 minutes to explore the lake and grab breakfast before hitting the road to Berat. On the way you will come across oil extractors and Klajdi explained that Albania is rich in crude oil but the much-needed refineries were either shut down or sold to other countries.
Berat Viewpoint
After a 45-minute drive, we reached Berat Castle, one of the few castles where you can drive through the castle walls avoiding a steep hike. Once, we reached the top, the first stop was at the viewpoint. We got to see the stunning valley and an eagle-eye view of the houses of two districts-Gorica and Mangalem which collectively form The City of Thousand Windows.
Our guide explained to us about a legend that connects the two mountains and the river. Legend states that the mountains were two brothers- now Mount Tomorr and Shpirag who were in love with Osumi– the river. It is believed that out of love for Osumi, both the brothers fought against each other with one full of holes and the other cut to pieces. The river is believed to be Osumi crying endlessly on hearing the tragedy.
Berat Castle
After taking in the views, we walked inside the castle walls where our guide shared the history of the castle’s different eras. Each rule left a significant impact and changed the inner fortifications and churches. Noticeable highlights are unfinished churches, mosques, and how communists tried to convert churches into resorts and ruins from the Ottoman Empire.
Walking through the cobblestone path, our next location was Onufri Museum, inside the small Church of the Dormition of St Mary that now houses different paintings and religious objects from the Byzantine era. This is an optional tour, we chose to enter the church and take a look. The ticket costs around 4 Euros / 400 Leke. The museum was named to honour Onufri, a painting Headmaster.
Berat city- The city of Thousand windows
As we headed to Berat City, Klajdi recommended different restaurants and delicacies. We had around 90 minutes to grab lunch and explore the Gorice and Mangalem districts, walk the famous Gorice bridge and explore the Christmas markets. We decided to grab lunch from Hotel Antigoni and it didn’t disappoint. We got the best view overlooking the district of Mangalem and the houses with windows. This is a must-try experience. For lunch, we went with the traditional burek with cheese and Tavë Kosi- Albanian Lamb and yoghurt casserole.
After lunch, we headed down to Varur Bridge to capture the most seen photo of the windowed houses of Mangalem district and walked towards the Gorice bridge on the other end. Gorice Bridge is one of the oldest and most popular Ottoman bridges in Albania. You take in the stunning views around you and head to the parking location where Klajdi will be waiting to take us back to Tirana which is approximately an hour and 45 minutes drive back the same way.
The tour has been a wonderful experience to learn about Albanian history, how the different rulings affected religious beliefs and explore some beautiful landscapes.
The next morning, we took a bus to Kotor from the East Terminal of Tirana. If you are travelling by bus, do check the boarding point. There are two taxi apps- Speed Taxi and Patoko. Speed Taxi is easy and fast.
Conclusion
Tirana is a city that offers a rich tapestry of history, culture and natural beauty. With exciting trips and easy access to different cities, pack your bags and get ready to explore Tirana and beyond.
There are two bus stations in Tirana- Tirana Central and East Terminal of Tirana. Be sure to check the boarding points
Useful Links
From Tirana: Berat City UNESCO Heritage and Belshi Lake Tour | GetYourGuide
Taxi in Tirana, Albania | Taxi 24 hour | Order Online | Speed Taxi Albania
